An SD card should be the least interesting part of your camera kit. When it works well, you never think about it. When it does not, it can ruin a shoot.
Most shooting problems tied to storage do not look dramatic. They show up as small delays, dropped clips, or unexpected errors at the worst possible time. Almost always, the cause is a card that was never quite right for the job.
In this blog, we dive into which models stand out, how to balance price and performance, and the easy mistakes to avoid. If you shoot photos, video, or a mix of both, read on to decide which SD card to buy for your camera.
Why your SD card choice really matters
Cards travel in pockets, card wallets, and backpacks. They meet rain, dust, airport scanners, and temperature swings. A good card is built to survive that life and protect your files. This is why professionals treat cards as core gear, not an accessory.
Key factors to conside
| Factor | In simple terms | Good for photographers | Good for videographers | Buying tip |
| Capacity | How much you can store | 64 to 256 GB covers most RAW days | 128 to 512 GB for 4K or 8K projects, or use two cards | Multiple medium cards reduce risk compared with one huge card |
| UHS bus | Connection speed between camera and card | UHS-I is common and affordable, UHS-II is much faster | UHS-II is preferred for high bitrates and long takes | Only buy UHS-II if your camera supports it, otherwise it runs at UHS-I speeds |
| Video class (V30, V60, V90) | Guaranteed minimum sustained write speed | V30 is fine for bursts on many cameras | V60 for advanced 4K and 6K, V90 for 4K high bitrate or 8K | Match your camera manual, do not guess |
| Read speed | How fast files copy to your computer | Saves time after a long shoot | Saves time offloading cards on set | Higher read speeds matter to your workflow, not to recording quality |
| Durability | Resistance to water, dust, shock, X-ray, heat | Nice to have for outdoor work | Important for travel and set life | Choose brands with clear ratings and long warranties |
| Warranty and support | Replacement if things go wrong | Peace of mind | Peace of mind | Prefer brands with 5-year or lifetime coverage and real support pages |
If you mostly shoot photos (RAW, bursts, events)
For photography, the card’s job is to keep the camera responsive. When you shoot bursts, the camera fills its buffer with images and then writes them to the card. A good card clears that buffer quickly so you can keep shooting.
What matters most
- Reliable write speed, not extreme speed
- Cards that behave consistently during long bursts
- Enough capacity for a full shooting day
Easy recommendations
- Everyday photography, travel, portraits, events
A UHS-I V30 card from a trusted brand is more than enough. These cards handle high-resolution RAW files well and are affordable. - Sports, wildlife, weddings, fast action
If your camera supports UHS-II, a V60 card feels noticeably faster. Bursts clear quicker and the camera recovers sooner. - Heavy burst shooting on high-end cameras
V90 cards are built for photographers who regularly push their cameras hard. These are best when missed shots are not an option.
If you mostly shoot video (4K, 6K, 8K, slow motion)
Video is less forgiving than photos. Once recording starts, the card must write data continuously without slowing down. If it cannot keep up, recording may stop or files may become unusable.
What matters most
- Guaranteed sustained write speed
- Matching the card’s video class to your camera’s requirements
- Stability during long recordings
Easy recommendations
- Standard 4K video on most mirrorless cameras
V60 cards are often enough and offer a good balance of price and performance. Always confirm your camera’s manual. - High-bitrate 4K, slow motion, professional work
V90 cards are the safest option. They are designed for demanding recording modes and long takes. - Stepping up from entry-level cards
If you are moving from V30 to more advanced video, V60 is a smart middle ground. Move to V90 when your camera requires it.
Simple safety habit
Before an important shoot, test your card in the exact video mode you plan to use. Record a long clip and let it run. If it finishes cleanly, you can trust it on the job.
Price versus performance
Use this as a snapshot of typical positioning. Prices move with sales and capacity, so treat these as ranges.
| Card type | Typical use | Sustained write speed | Who it’s for |
| UHS-I V30 | Photos, basic 4K | 30 MB/s | Most photographers and casual video shooters |
| UHS-II V60 | Advanced stills, 4K–6K | 60 MB/s | Hybrid shooters and frequent burst users |
| UHS-II V90 | High-end video, 8K | 90 MB/s | Professional video and demanding workflows |
How to read this table: V30 covers basic 4K and stills. V60 is a sweet spot for advanced 4K, 6K, and heavy burst stills. V90 is the safe pick for high bitrate 4K, 8K, and professional slow motion.
The right card for your shooting style
If you mostly shoot photos: a UHS-I V30 card from a leading brand covers travel, portraits, and everyday work. If your camera offers UHS-II and you shoot long bursts, step up to UHS-II V60 for noticeably faster buffer clearing.
If you shoot demanding video: match your camera’s requirement. V60 handles many 4K and 6K modes. V90 is the safe bet for high bitrate 4K, ALL-I codecs, 8K, or long slow motion. Never guess the class, always confirm in the manual.
If you do both: UHS-II V60 is the balanced choice for today and a bit of future growth. It keeps stills responsive and records most advanced video modes without trouble.
Quick “Which card do I need?” checklist
- I mostly take photos → UHS-I V30 or UHS-II V60
- I shoot fast bursts often → UHS-II V60 or V90
- I shoot 4K video → V60 (if supported) or V90
- I shoot high-bitrate video or slow motion → V90
- My camera has UHS-I only → Do not overpay for UHS-II
- I want less risk → Use multiple medium cards, not one huge one
Conclusion
An SD card should never be the reason a shoot feels stressful. When the card matches how you work, the camera stays responsive, recordings finish cleanly, and files copy without surprises.
You do not need the fastest card on the shelf. You need the right class for your camera and your shooting style. Stick to trusted brands, buy from reliable sellers, test new cards early, and rotate them out before they fail.
FAQs
No. Your camera has to support the bus and the speed class. A UHS-II card still works in a UHS-I slot, but only at UHS-I speeds. Always check the manual.
Not always. Very large cards put all your eggs in one basket. Many pros prefer several medium cards so one failure does not take a full day with it.
That big number is usually the maximum read speed for copying files. Video needs sustained write speed. The V number on the card is the honest guarantee for that.
Two to five years is typical for frequent use. Heavy video recording and constant rewriting wears cards faster. Retire cards proactively if you shoot for clients. Bonus Tip: Label cards by year or rotate them out on a schedule. It is cheaper than losing files.
Prices that are far below market, spelling errors on packaging, and serial numbers that do not verify on the brand site are red flags. Test capacity and speed when the card arrives and return anything suspicious.
